TASTING LAB

Jarred Hot Salsas
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Written: 4/2008

Are Hot Salsas Better Than Mild?

We don’t like jarred salsa. Yes, we know it’s now America’s favorite condiment, but previous taste tests have been disappointing. Almost no jarred salsas have reached “recommended” status, and none have come close to the allure of homemade fresh salsa. But our prior taste tests have focused on mild and medium varieties. Might jarred hot salsas be more interesting than their timid cousins?

To find out, we sampled nine national brands and were surprised that most tasters didn’t need to quell the burn with cold milk or water as they nibbled. Only the Pace, Frontera Habanero, and Green Mountain Gringo salsas were considered sufficiently hot, and none were excessively incendiary.

These hot salsas were livelier and better than the mild salsas we’ve tasted in the past, with eight of the nine receiving passing grades. But even the best—Pace, Frontera, and Newman’s Own—were merely good, not great, and didn’t approach the quality of fresh salsa. Why? Good salsa relies on the interplay of fresh vegetable flavors and textures. Jarred salsas have the freshness and crispness cooked out of them.

Our first- and third-place salsas, Pace and Newman’s Own, respectively, came closest to replicating the fresh flavors and colors of homemade salsa, in part because they had high percentages of tomatoes and vegetables: The test kitchen measured both at around 60 percent solid matter by weight. (By comparison, lowest-rated Chi-Chi’s contains just 45 percent solids.) Second-place Frontera Habanero contains an average amount of solids (51 percent) but uses roasted tomatoes to produce a fiery salsa that our tasters appreciated for its complexity.

Our advice: If you’re going to buy jarred salsa, go for the hot stuff. The brands we tasted are listed below in order of preference.

Recommended

1. PACE Hot Chunky Salsa, $2.49 for 16 ounces
Most tasters were impressed by this spicy salsa’s “bright tomato and chile” and “vegetal” flavors, as well as its “chunky,” “crunchy” texture. There is a “quick hit of tomato flavor, then fire” from the big burn.

2. FRONTERA Hot Habanero Salsa with Roasted Tomatoes and Cilantro, $4.69 for 16 ounces
The roasted tomatoes in this brand were clearly identifiable: “Smoky and complex, yet still has fresh zing,” said one taster. “Exciting to eat,” said another. This was also the hottest salsa in our tasting.

3. NEWMAN’S OWN All Natural Chunky Hot Salsa, $2.79 for 16 ounces
This salsa is seasoned with plenty of garlic, cilantro, and black pepper. One taster made note of an “herby flavor I like, but that isn’t typical for salsa.” “Could be hotter” was a common comment.

4. HERDEZ Hot Salsa Casera, $3.49 for 16 ounces
This salsa was the saltiest of the lot—and tasters noticed, saying, “Less of a cooked taste, but too salty.” With the shortest ingredient list in our lineup, several tasters praised this brand as “fresh-tasting” and “clean and crisp.”

Recommended with Reservations

5. TOSTITOS Hot Chunky Salsa, $2.99 for 15.5 ounces
This “basic and inoffensive,” “ordinary” salsa had average scores for heat level, flavor, and texture.

6. OLD EL PASO Thick n’Chunky Hot Salsa, $2.79 for 16 ounces
Many tasters commented on the “cloyingly sweet” nature of this salsa. The “strong tomato flavor” comes from the wealth of tomato chunks—this salsa had more solids (65 percent) than any other in our test.

7. EMERIL’S Kicked Up Chunky Hot Salsa, $3.79 for 16 ounces
“Another bland, tomatoey salsa” that was “not very interesting” but had “decent flavor.” “Not hot enough,” said one uninspired taster; “tastes like canned tomato puree,” said another.

8. GREEN MOUNTAIN GRINGO Hot Salsa, $3.79 for 16 ounces
This brand received some very high marks but also some dreadfully low ones. One thing is not debatable—it has a “fierce,” “lingering” heat. The only brand to include tomatillos, which might have polarized tasters.

Not Recommended

9. CHI-CHI’S Hot Fiesta Salsa, $2.79 for 16 ounces
“I wouldn’t dip into this twice,” said one wincing taster. Many detected “soapy,” “musty,” “funky,” “sour,” or “bitter” flavors. “Just all-around bad,” and thin, too—this salsa had the lowest solid content of the brands tasted. “Tastes stale, but if you had beer and chips you might not notice,” cracked another.

Recommended: PACE

Recommended: FRONTERA

Recommended: NEWMAN'S OWN

Recommended: HERDEZ

One-Minute Salsa

Since store-bought salsa is almost always watery and bland, we wondered if we could create a fresh salsa that’s not much more effort than opening a jar. Here’s what we discovered:

Test Kitchen Discoveries

Instead of coring, seeding and dicing fresh tomatoes, we used canned diced tomatoes. They worked just as well—just make sure to drain them first.
Canned pickled jalapeños added heat and a vinegary kick to our salsa—and we didn’t have to wear gloves to open the can as we do when working with fresh jalapeños.
For color, sweetness, and bite we added fresh red onion, cilantro, lime juice, and garlic.

One-Minute Salsa

Makes about 1 cup

The salsa will keep for 2 days in the refrigerator. Reseason to taste before serving. Make sure to drain both the tomatoes and the jalapeños before processing.

1/2	small red onion
1/4	cup fresh cilantro leaves
1	tablespoon lime juice
1	clove garlic , peeled
2	tablespoons pickled jalapeño peppers , drained
1/4	teaspoon salt
	1 can (14 1/2 ounces) diced tomatoes , drained

Pulse onion, cilantro, lime juice, garlic, jalapeños, and salt in food processor until roughly chopped, about five 1-second pulses. Add tomatoes and pulse until chopped, about two 1-second pulses. Transfer mixture to fine-mesh strainer and drain briefly. Serve.

Chunky Guacamole

The best guacamole starts with ripe avocados, but other ingredients often overwhelm their delicate flavor. Here’s how we made a guacamole that kept the avocado center stage.

Test Kitchen Discoveries

Tasters liked the flavor of minced garlic, but thought raw onions were just too harsh. We used scallions instead. Steeping them in lime juice for a few minutes before combining them with the avocados mellowed their flavor.
To provide a little textural contrast, we mashed two-thirds of the avocado and roughly chopped the rest.

Chunky Guacamole

Makes about 3 cups

Preparing guacamole ahead of time helps the flavors marry, but it should not be prepared more than 1 day in advance. To prevent the dip from turning brown, press a sheet of plastic wrap directly onto the surface and refrigerate until ready to use.

2	thinly sliced scallions , green and white parts separated
1	minced jalapeno pepper
1	small garlic clove , minced
1/4	teaspoon grated lime zest
2	tablespoons fresh lime juice from 1 lime
3	avocados , pitted, peeled, and chopped
3	tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro leaves
	Salt

1. Combine white parts of scallions, jalapeño, garlic, and lime juice in large bowl. Let sit for 30 minutes.

2. Add two-thirds of the avocado to bowl with jalapeño mixture and mash with potato masher until smooth. Gently fold remaining avocado into mashed avocado mixture. Gently stir in lime zest, green parts of scallions, and cilantro. Season with salt. Serve.

Better Chicken Fajitas

Dry, stringy chicken breasts and limp, tasteless vegetables desperately need a truckload of toppings. How about chicken fajitas that taste great on their own?

The Problem: Too often, chicken fajitas need to be slathered with guacamole, sour cream, and salsa to mask the bland flavor of the soggy underlying ingredients.

The Goal: We wanted to go back to the basics, creating a simple combination of smoky grilled vegetables and strips of chicken wrapped up in warm flour tortillas. The chicken and vegetables should be flavorful enough to make condiments unnecessary.

The Solution: We realized that each component--the chicken, vegetables, and tortillas--needed special handling. Briefly marinating the chicken in a high-acid mixture created a bright, unadulterated tang; Worcestershire sauce gave the marinade an additional layer of saltiness and smoke. We created a two-level fire to allow the chicken, peppers, and onions to grill simultaneously--the chicken over high heat and the vegetables over medium-high heat--which allowed them to brown nicely and cook through without burning. We finished the chicken and vegetables with a final burst of fresh flavor by tossing the cooked ingredients in just a small amount of reserved marinade. Six-inch tortillas made the perfect wrappers, and we heated them for 20 brief seconds on the cooler end of the grill until they puffed up and lost their raw, gummy texture.

Mexican Chocolate Butter Cookies

Makes about 4 dozen 2 1/2-inch cookies

Natural cocoa powder will work in this recipe, but we found that Dutch-processed yields the best chocolate flavor. Espresso powder provides complexity, but instant coffee can be substituted in a pinch. The dough can be wrapped tightly in plastic wrap and stored in the refrigerator for up to three days or in the freezer for up to two weeks. Defrost frozen dough in the refrigerator overnight, then let stand at room temperature until firm yet malleable, about 30 minutes. The cookies are refined enough to serve plain, but a dusting of sifted confectioners' sugar or chocolate glaze is a nice touch. Baked cookies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to three days but should be dusted with sugar or glazed the day they are served.

INGREDIENTS


1/2	cup sliced almonds
1	teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/8	teaspoon cayenne pepper
20	tablespoons unsalted butter (2 1/2 sticks), softened to cool room temperature (about 65 degrees)
1/2	cup cocoa powder (about 2 ounces)
1	teaspoon espresso powder
1	cup sugar (7 ounces)
1/4	teaspoon table salt
2	large egg yolks
1	tablespoon vanilla extract
2 1/4	cups unbleached all-purpose flour (11 1/4 ounces)
1/2	cup turbinado sugar (or other raw or sanding sugar)
*Optional Bittersweet Chocolate Glaze*
4	ounces bittersweet chocolate
4	tablespoons unsalted butter
2	tablespoons corn syrup
1	teaspoon vanilla extract

See Illustrations Below: Determining Doneness

1. In medium skillet set over medium heat, toast almonds, cinnamon, and cayenne until fragrant, about 3 minutes; set aside to cool. In food processor fitted with metal blade, process cooled mixture until very fine, about 15 seconds. Set aside.

2. Adjust oven rack to middle position; heat oven to 375 degrees. Melt 4 tablespoons butter in medium saucepan over medium heat. Add cocoa powder and espresso powder; stir until mixture forms smooth paste. Set aside to cool, 15 to 20 minutes.

3. In standing mixer fitted with paddle attachment, mix remaining 16 tablespoons butter, sugar, salt, and cooled cocoa mixture on high speed until well combined and fluffy, about 1 minute, scraping sides of mixing bowl once or twice with rubber spatula. Add yolks and vanilla and mix on medium speed until thoroughly combined, about 30 seconds. Scrape sides of bowl. Whisk nut/spice mixture into flour. With mixer running on low, add flour in three additions, waiting until each addition is incorporated before adding next and scraping bowl after each addition. Continue to mix until dough forms cohesive ball, about 5 seconds. Shape into dough log, 2 inches in diameter and about 12 inches long; use parchment paper or plastic wrap to roll into neat cylinder. Chill until very firm and cold, at least 1 hour.

4. Roll chilled log in sugar. Slice cookies 1/4 inch thick and place on parchment-lined baking sheets.

5. Bake until cookies show slight resistance to touch (see photo below), 10 to 12 minutes, rotating baking sheet halfway through baking time; if cookies begin to darken on edges, they have overbaked. Cool for 5 minutes, then, using spatula, transfer cookies to wire rack; cool completely. Repeat steps 3 and 4 with remaining dough disks and scraps, rerolling scraps just once. Decorate as desired.

6. For Glaze: Melt bittersweet chocolate with butter and whisk until smooth. Add corn syrup and vanilla extract and mix until smooth and shiny. Use back of spoon to spread scant 1 teaspoon glaze almost to edge of each cookie. (If necessary, reheat to prolong fluidity of glaze.) Allow glazed cookies to dry at least 20 minutes.

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